These have a specific orientation, so make sure you insert them the right way. Make sure you insert the insert the component accordingly - lead goes into the - hole.
This is the big screw terminal. Insert it with the openings for wires facing the outside of the board. Solder it into place. Take feet of Cat 6 ethernet cable, and remove 3 twisted pairs from it. Then solder each wire into its hole. Trim the ends if required. This is the logic chip. It has 14 pins and fits into the smaller socket.
Take care with the legs. You will insert it by first lightly inserting one set of legs into the socket, slightly pushing on the chip to bend the pins so that the other row of pins can be inserted into the socket. Once all pins are in the socket, push down on the chip to fully insert it. Take care to not damage the chip legs!! This is the motor driver chip. It has 16 pins and fits in the larger socket. Follow the directions above on how to insert it. Plug your board into a standard ATX power supply and turn the power supply on.
If it doesnt, check that you soldered the resistor in correctly I forgot mine first try You will want to wire up two motors to the board to test both channels. If you only have one motor, you can still test it, but you'll have to test them each individually.
The orientation of your motor doesn't matter, as long as it can be driven in both directions, and it pulls less than mA of power. This part is very easy. Now, insert the end of each input into the correct pin on the Arduino, and then connect the Ground pin to Ground on Arduino. Use the table below to determine what pins to hook up to what:. Now, feel free to turn on the power to your power suppply. After the firmware has compiled and uploaded, the Arduino will restart and the exerciser will begin shortly.
Simply take your hacked PC power supply and plug a power connector into board. There is no power indicator, but as long as nothing starts smoking, you should be fine.
This board can also be used to drive a stepper motor. It can only handle small motors, so make sure your stepper motor wont pull more than mA. If you have a small stepper motor that you want to drive, then this board is perfect for it: small, cheap, and easy. Here is what the pins functions are:. First, wire up the stepper to your board: one coil to one motor output, and the other coil to the other output.
If you wire one up backwards, simply reverse the leads on one and just one motor output, and it should drive correctly. Break off the appropriate number of pins from the pin strip and solder them into place. Take care to make sure you solder them in straight. This is the power connector for the board. It is a standard socket that accepts a power cord from a standard PC power supply. Match up the notches on the inside of the connector with the markings on the silkscreen.
Solder it in, and make sure you use plenty of solder. These are the electrolytic capacitors. They have only one orientation you can solder them in. One side is marked negative with '-' going down one side. The PCB hole spacing is incorrect, so you may have to bend the legs slightly to get them to fit properly. This is the L chip. You will only be able to insert it into the board in one orientation.
We messed up on this board, so its recommended that you attach the heatsink before you insert it so that you know the heatsink will fit. Once you have inserted it, solder it in. Take care not to use too much solder so that it doesnt bleed through and bridge where the leads come together.
This is the stepper header. Solder it with the tabs facing the inside of the board. Make sure it is nice and flush with the board. If you ordered it from Mouser, it comes as part of a breakaway header. Use wire clippers to cut the plastic joiners apart to make it the correct width.
Take feet of Cat 6 ethernet cable, and remove 1" of the sheath from it to expose the twisted pairs. Then solder each wire into its hole. Trim the ends if required. Its recommended that you solder the sync cables separately from the other inputs, as they are board to board connections, not board to Arduino connections.
You can attach the heatsink so it faces either direction, but if you mount it so that it remains within the borders of the PCB, it will be much tidier. Always turn your power supply off before plugging it in. It won't fry things most of the time Simply take your hacked PC power supply and plug a power connector into board.
The green LED next to the connector should light up. If it doesn't, check its polarity and bust out your multimeter! Now that the power is off, it is time to insert the chip that tells the L when to turn on and off. Line up the semicircle on the chip with the semicircle on the silkscreen and the chip socket if you did it right : Make sure all the legs are properly in the socket, and fully insert it. You shouldn't need to remove it after this, so feel free to push it all the way in. Now that your chip is fully inserted, turn the power back on.
The LEDs next to the stepper header should also light up, as the stepper is enabled by default. If they both do, then chances are your circuit is working properly! This part is very easy. Now, insert the end of each input into the correct pin on the Arduino, and then connect the Ground pin to Ground on Arduino. Use the table below to determine what pins to hook up to what:.
Now, feel free to turn on the power to your power supply. Next, open the Arduino software, copy the code below into your sketch and upload it. After the firmware has compiled and uploaded, the Arduino will restart and the exerciser will begin shortly. It will do steps in each direction at each speed. The higher speeds might be too high, your motor, although correctly connected, will just beep then. You can easily visually verify that the stepper motor driver is working after you do this, as the LED's next to the stepper driver will light up with an orangeish color.
This is because the LED's are switching from green to red very rapidly. If this is happening, then congratulations: your stepper driver board is a success! You'll need a stepper motor to drive at this point.
Find a stepper motor that you have wired up to a. You can view wiring diagrams for various stepper motors if you have not wired any up yet. Make sure the power to your driver board is off and insert the connector. Reset the Arduino board and turn the power on for your power supply.
After a few seconds, your stepper motor should spring to life. However, the stepper motors in a Mendel never run anywhere near that range, so mid-band resonance compensation provides no benefit to a Mendel build.
The transistors most likely to fail in a RepRap are the transistors directly connected to the motor. There seem to be three schools of thought in response:. Modern stepper motor drivers have "thermal shutdown" -- when they sense they are getting too hot, they automatically turn everything off and let everything cool off.
That may ruin your plastic print, but at least no permanent damage has been done. That's not to say that modern stepper drivers can't be permanently destroyed; you're just going to be more clever in how you do it. In particular, I hear that motor drivers often fail when the motor is disconnected while the power is turned on.
What exactly is the failure mode? Is there some way to design the motor driver to be immune to such failures? From RepRap. Jump to: navigation , search. To make a stepper motor run, you need to use possibly a A or possibly a DRV or possibly a Trinamic TMC You can likly buy either of these at a shop of your choice.
Categories : Stepper motor drivers Through-hole electronics Surface-mount electronics. Navigation menu Personal tools Create account Log in. Namespaces Page Discussion. Views Read View source View history. This page was last edited on 1 May , at Privacy policy About RepRap Disclaimers. Pin compatible with the A Been used in a RepRap twice.
Marlin-based RepRap firmware with L support. RepRap PCB. File:GE stepper version 0. Diagnostic flags for stall detection, thermal warning, thermal shutdown, open load, overload. TMCA [5] [6]. Status flags for stall detection, overcurrent, open load, over temperature, temperature pre-warning, undervoltage. Drop-in replacement for TMC Suggested for the Gen7T electronics. Used in the Gen7T and Sanguish and Sanguinoshiba electronics plus the open source stepper driver for open source ecology [citation needed].
Test on GEN7V1. Used in Easy Driver boards sold on Sparkfun. Not sure if they can be used in RepRaps but they're good for experimenting. Improved over v1. Also used in Stepper Motor Driver 2. Used in Stepsticka Discontinued product, replaced by A Used in A Breakout Board. Used in Pololu stepper driver boards and the G3D driver. Identical and pin compatible to A, but also pullup on M1 and motor short circuit protection.
Used in generation 6 electronics.
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